Tuesday, November 12, 2019

Go beyond technique

In my previous post about design, I wrote a long article about copyright and fair use and things like that.

In this post, I wish to talk about flat diagonal Cellini peyote to give you more examples about going beyond technique.

In the photo below you can see several designs made with this technique.


There are 3 peyote ribbons at the top, of which one is zipped in the length. All are clever beauties. The pendant on the left took much more time and research to create and clearly goes beyond technique. The Fandango earrings are a typical example of art-chitecture, the frontier between technique and art. Those who know me know that attaching the earstud and the earnut to the beadwork is a "Cath" signature.

When I made my Anthea's Tiara central stone bezel, I discovered how to make Bolas Canastas. I decided to give the Bolas Canastas technique to the people of Planet Bead, because of its huge potential. This is why I use the example of this technique: I see it evolve nearly "live" and with pleasure.

Flat diagonal Cellini peyote is only technique and I already had created many dimensional Cellini Peyote shaped beadwork. The tutorials for these pretties will expand your beady brain far more than the bolas, which is why I wrote tutorials for them:

3D or "Dimensional" or "shaped" Cellini Peyote creations:
Precious Pommanders, Mermaid Tail beaded
beads and Lotus bangle

Unzipped bolas are simply diagonal Cellini peyote ribbons. I don't see them as design, but as technique. Nobody can claim them as a design. But depending on what you do with these ribbons, the size, the bead count, the colors, the assembling method, they become designs. The method is the architecture to which you need to add a bit of your Art to make it your art-chitecture.

These Bolas are my designs, for their special
shapes and special colors
I made many different bolas. The variations in color and shape offer endless design possibilities.

Tooth pick vessel "Primeval Waters"
The longer and wider the ribbon, the more things become interesting. If you make a Cellini ribbon with your personal choice of bead colors and sizes, it will determine what the piece will look like in the end and that is what will make it yours. There is a different bola for each beader on Planet Bead.

Frosty is a shaped (triple) Bola Canastas
for which I made a tutorial
Of course, the more complex, the more a design can be "claimed".

Teresa Shelton is a very creative beader who uses primarely peyote stitch for her own creations. She made her Minx River earrings by folding the Cellini ribbon. This might sound very simple, but it takes a specific choice of bead sizes for a nice result. She teaches them in her region, but also gave us the sequence in the Cellini Peyote Freaks group.

Teresa's Minx River earrings in
delightful rainbow colors.

I had plans to make real earhoops. Créoles in French. I love that word. My plan was to add earstuds and earnuts to make hoops. I tried and ended up with my Fandango Earrings. 

My preferred version of the Fandango earrings are the ones with the studs and nuts attached to the beadwork as in the photo below, but I also made a dangle version with off-centered beads added to them). I think that my earrings really go beyond technique and that they are very "me".

https://caththomasdesigns.indiemade.com/product/fandango-earrings-ear-huggies-or-dangle-earrings


Fandango Earrings

The same is valid for CRAW, Herringbone, Peyote, Diamond Weave, Brickstitch and many more techniques. Add your special touch. And if you encounter design collision, don't feel defeated. It means that you're on the right track!

When art is added to architecture, you end up with an original design

I like to think of the frontier between technique and a copyright design as art-chitecture. When architecture becomes invisible, trancended, then it is Art, and certainly fully 'copyrighted'.

We can easily differenciate this below - "Duo" uses herringbone (rope) and 3/1 drop peyote and "Time has Wings" uses herringbone, a mix of brick and picot stitch, Diamond Weave and a lot of inspirational details.

Time has Wings
Duo

But when does a creation, made with xy technique, become copyright? This is a difficult question and the answer, as well, is not easy.


This article is not academic. It is a personal view based on legal material and ethical views, and I hope that it will be of help. I decided to write this article after I got contacted by designer Aurelio Castano to show me a pair of fabulous pearl earrings made by him and Edwin Batres with Cellini peyote. If find them very beautiful.

Aurelio's earring
Aurelio considers that his earrings are too close to my Fandango earrings and despite my encouragements, he is very reluctant to write / publish a tutorial. He said that I was the inspiration and motivation behind it. But he didn't use my pattern, not even the same Cellini method.

It would be sad that he doesn't teach it. I think that he should. And I love that clever finding!

What is protected, what is not:

Aurelio's earring
Techniques are not copyright because they are necessary for progress (in every domain, science in particular). Only when a large number of steps and methods are involved, a technique can be protected by copyright.

Ideas, like "Going to Mars" or "a time machine" (that does not yet exist but in someone's brain) can also not be protected by copyright.

However, illustrations, photos and texts, patterns and such are always copyright, from the very moment they are published, no matter if the author protects them or not. Even a free tutorial is protected by copyright.
Fandango Ear Dangles
The way these works can be used is generally mentioned in the documents, or on the website where they can be downloaded. It is the author who decides where these documents may be hosted or how they can be used, so it is better to not host/use them without the approval of the author; often photos and tuts may be used for non-commercial purposes only.

Ethics: in case of doubt, don't do it. That is what Aurelio decided. But in my books, he may tutify his earrings because they have this subtile combo of his art added to architecture.

Between technique and design, it can be difficult to determine where the frontier resides. A good example of this complicated frontier are Jonna Holston's Fan-shaped earrings.

Fandango Ear Huggies
Fan-shaped hoops make a come back in the Cellini Peyote Freaks group. They look lovely with other Cellini creations, for a variety of bead sizes is used to create the fancy semi-circle shape. They are also perfect last-minute project for Christmas gifts. I could easily see how they were made (peyote in the round with Cellini sequence), but I wanted to find the original pattern back, only didn't know where to look anymore.

Cathification of Jonna Holston's Hoops

With the words "Peyote fan shaped earrings", I found a blogpost by Linda Genaw, Caravan Beads, several photo tuts on blogs and on BeadDiagrams.com. Google also showed my very own Fandango Earrings, which made me smile.

But I remembered a much older pair, which a Swiss beading friend had adapted from a project in a magazine. So I pushed my search a bit further and found out that I actually had the Bead & Button magazine in which Jonna had her "Holler for Hoops" project published. You can still buy Jonna's pattern here.

Jonna Holston's earrings
are like little baskets,
not flat

 

At first sight all fan shaped earrings look the same, but Jonna's earrings are slightly bumpy. They're double sided, like a half-tire. Gold-plated seed beads are heavier then the ordinary ones, so double sided was not my goal. I based my earrings on Jonna's start and had to adapt the bead sequence too for a really flat fan shape. It took several attemps before I got mine right. And I altered them with a 6/0 Miyuki baroque pearl to give them a personal touch.

Caravan Beads used different bead sizes and two more beads in their first pick-up (and fabulous colors), resulting in larger earrings, Anne Lazenby of  Beaddiagrams altered Linda's tutoral and turned 5 fans into a very beautiful necklace, Linda altered a Russian pattern. My fans are smaller than the others (less rows) with only one Miyuki size 6/0 baroque pearl seed bead to somewhat customize their look...

BeadDiagrams.com altered Linda's instructions
and turned 5 fans into a very beautiful necklace.

 

All the resulting fans are flat and lovely, yet Jonna's signature can be found back in all the variants: same bead count for nearly all, and most of all, her top 3-bead-bridge, which allows a regular decrease on each side of the earrings to create the shape. Very clever and a distinctive signature of her artchitecture.

I've seen many "Holler for Hoops", but not one exact hoop as Jonna's, double or single sided. I've come to the conclusion that most beaders who tried to make them had a hard time obtaining the desired result, no matter what pattern they choose to use. 10 years after the publication of her pair in a magazine I am not surprised to see an off-spring become "public domain". It actually seems that it had a long 'solo' life


This is a typical "grey zone". In case of grey zone, it is good to remember that in copyright laws the concept of fair use may apply. Learn more about Fair use - it is not something that allows you to use something without consent. It is a concept that acknowledges the possibility that there is lack of knowledge: here, many don't know or remember Jonna's design. They used a free tutorial from a Russian site, or from another blogger, and they say so. Fair use is also about design collision. It happens. It is unintentional. It is not totally impossible that the Russian who made that pattern did it from scratch. But those 3 beads... that start... hm hemmm. Fair use is a legal concept and may be invoked in a case. A judge will decide if yes or no it applies. Ideally, avoid getting that far and stay away from legal complications.

I say, let's bring beauty to the world, remain kind... help one another, give credit when we know / can and take a design sufficently further to make it our own.

Thank you for reading this first, long post about design. Read my next post about going beyond technique and please, leave a comment. I love to hear from you!